Pony Stitch-A-Long: Part 1 (the pattern itself)

How many of you are ready for some pony fun?  I know I am!!!

For those of you who are prepping for our stitch-a-long, we're almost there!  In getting ready, it might be helpful to read through the pattern itself ahead of time so we're posting this now.  We'll be taking this in steps to help everyone as we work together in stitching up your new little friend and hopefully we'll be able to answer any questions you have that way so be sure to check those posts....you'll also find pictures there to help you understand things like how I refer to my own adopted techniques (for securing a magic ring, for instance or working into a joining stitch) for anyone who doesn't already know.  If those don't help fill in the gaps, leave a comment here or email me directly and I'll try and figure out the best way to help.  Can't wait to see what you are able to make of your new friend, happy stitching all!!!  (Don't forget: this pattern is based on an original designed by Megan Daly.  You can find her single-strand original as well as links to be able to donate to her at http://hooked-on-anime.dreamwidth.org/6139.html which we'd strongly encourage as a thank you to her for her generosity!)

Please note: While the way I'm writing my pattern is made as simply as I can make it, this is not a beginning crochet lesson.  You'll need to know how to make the stitches as described in the abbreviations list.  There is a plethora of YouTube videos on how to do this....I'll see if I can find some of my favorites to share with each of the posts that come if I'm able but you'll want to make sure you understand them yourself before jumping into this project.

Double-Stranded Pony Pattern

Materials
Worsted Weight Yarn (4 skeins Encore, or 2 skeins I Love This Yarn),

** plan on a little of extra yarn for the eyes of a different color from a stash (brown, black)**
Ruffle Yarn (1 ball complimentary colors to body)
Hook size J/10-6.00mm
Hook size F/5-3.75mm
Tapestry Needle

Tips
*Please read the whole pattern beginning to end first before you start stitching your parts.
*Every yarn part is stitched with double strands simultaneously unless otherwise indicated.
*For final count of stitches, the initial chain series will count as a full stitch unless otherwise indicated in the pattern.
*To put all of the various animal parts together, read the instructions at the end of the pattern/stitch-a-long.
*When stuffing your parts, follow the instructions with each piece....typically found at the end of that particular part in the pattern (hence part of the suggestion to read the entire pattern through before beginning).

*There will be specific pictures with each of the stitch-a-long blog posts that are intended to help people see what I might be referring to if you have any questions.  Please be sure to check those out since they are actually separate from the pattern posting itself.  I'll add links to them after we finish the actual stitch-a-long for those of you joining us later.

Abbreviations
Ch- chain
Dc- double crochet
Sl st- slip stitch
Dc2tg- double crochet 2 together

Bpsc- back post single crochet

Fpdc- front post double crochet

Fpdc2tg- front post double crochet 2 together

Hdc- half double crochet

Hdc2tg- half double crochet 2 together

Stitching Instructions

Head
Foundation: Magic Ring

Row 1: Ch 3, then work 11 dc into the magic ring.  Cinch the magic ring as tightly as possible, then sl st into the 3rd ch and secure. (12 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 3, then *work 2dc into the first stitch then 1 dc into the next stitch*.  Repeat *to* all the way around then sl st into the 3rd ch. (18 stitches)

Row 3: Ch 3 then *work 1 dc into each of the next two stitches, then work 2 dc into the next stitch*.  Repeat *to* all the way around finishing by working a final dc into the joining stitch then sl st into the 3rd ch. (24 stitches)

Row 4: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into the first stitch.  Next *work 2 dc into the next stitch followed by 1 dc into each of the next three stitches*.  Repeat all the way around finishing with a dc into the last stitch then sl st into the 3rd ch. (30 stitches)

Row 5: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc into each of the next four stitches followed by 2 dc into the fifth stitch*.  Repeat *to* until the end of the row where you'll finish by working a final dc into the joining stitch then sl st into the 3rd ch. (36 stitches)

Row 6: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into each of the stitches all the way around. (36 stitches)

Row 7-8: Repeat row 6.

Row 9: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc into each of the next four stitches followed by 1 dc2tg*.  Repeat *to* until the end, finishing with the last dc2tg directly into the 3rd ch. (30 stitches)

Row 10: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into the first stitch.  Then *work 1 dc2tg followed by 1 dc in each of the next three stitches*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing with a sl st into the 3rd ch. (24 stitches)

Row 11: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc into each of the next two stitches followed by 1 dc2tg*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing by working the final dc2tg into the 3rd ch.  (18 stitches)

Row 12: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc2tg followed by 1 dc into the next stitch*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing by working the final dc2tg and then sl st into the 3rd ch. (12 stitches)

Row 13: Ch 3 then work a dc2tg, repeat all the way around.  Finish with the final dc2tg being worked into the 3rd ch directly. (6 stitches)

Break off, leaving a tail only long enough to weave into the strands.  Be sure to secure the closure by tying securely closed (I'll usually secure that knot tightly into the stitch directly opposite the sl st closure).

*To stuff, what I do is when you get to row 11 get your nylon stocking out, stretched width-wise for a bit, then put it inside the cavity.  Stuff this as full as you can to the top of the cavity so it feels firmly stuffed.  Twist the nylon tight and tie a knot firmly in the end, then cut the nylon end off and save it for using to stuff the other pieces (be sure to tie a tight knot at the open end to prep for stuffing the next piece).  Finish the head part by working through row 13 and be sure to keep the nylon tail inside before you break off and tie to secure the closing.

Body
Foundation: Magic Ring

Row 1: Ch 3, then work 11 dc into the magic ring.  Cinch the magic ring as tightly as possible, then sl st into the 3rd ch and secure the ring tail. (12 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 3, then *work 2 dc into the first stitch followed by 1 dc into the next stitch*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing with a sl st into the 3rd ch. (18 stitches)

Row 3: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc into each of the next two stitches followed with 2 dc into the third stitch*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing with a final dc into the joining stitch and then a sl st into the 3rd ch. (24 stitches)

Row 4: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into the first stitch.  After that *work 2 dc into the next stitch followed by 1 dc into each of the next three stitches*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing with a dc into the last stitch then a sl st into the 3rd ch. (30 stitches)

Row 5: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc into each of the next four stitches followed by 2 dc into the fifth stitch*.  Repeat *to* until the end of the row where you'll finish by working a final dc into the joining stitch then sl st into the 3rd ch. (36 stitches)

Row 6: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into each of the stitches all the way around. (36 stitches)

Row 7-14: Repeat row 6.

Row 15: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc into each of the next four stitches followed by 1 dc2tg*.  Repeat *to* until the end, finishing with the last dc2tg directly into the 3rd ch. (30 stitches)

Row 16: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into the first stitch.  Then *work 1 dc2tg followed by 1 dc in each of the next three stitches*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing with a sl st into the 3rd ch. (24 stitches)

Row 17: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc into each of the next two stitches followed by 1 dc2tg*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing by working the final dc2tg into the 3rd ch.  (18 stitches)

Row 18: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc2tg followed by 1 dc into the next stitch*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing by working the final dc2tg and then sl st into the 3rd ch. (12 stitches)

Row 19: Ch 3 then work a dc2tg, repeat all the way around.  Finish with the final dc2tg being worked into the 3rd ch directly. (6 stitches)

Break off and weave in the ends.

To stuff, work a new nylon the same as with the head.  I will usually begin to stuff when I reach row 16, then just twist off the nylon until you finish row 18 when you make sure that the entire cavity is filled firmly before tying off as before and continuing with the entire piece.

Forelegs (make two)

Foundation: Magic Ring

Row 1: Ch 3, then work 11 dc into the magic ring.  Cinch the ring as tightly as possible, then sl st into the 3rd ch.  Use the sl st to help secure the ring, then secure with a double knot into the feeding line.  (12 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 3, then work 2 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Finish the row with a final dc into the joining stitch and then sl st into the third ch. (24 stitches)

Row 3: Sl st into the back post, then ch 2 followed by 1 scbp into each stitch all the way around.  Sl st into the second ch. (24 stitches)

Row 4: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Finish with a sl st into the third ch. (24 stitches)

Row 5: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg, followed by 1 dc into each stitch all the way around. Finish with a sl st into the third ch. (23 stitches)

Row 6: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg, followed by 1 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Finish with a sl st into the third ch. (22 stitches)

Row 7: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg, followed by 1 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Finish with a sl st into the third ch. (21 stitches)

Row 8: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg, followed by 1 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Finish with a sl st into the third ch. (20 stitches)

Row 9: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg, followed by 1 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Finish with a sl st into the third ch. (19 stitches)

Row 10: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg, followed by 1 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Finish with a sl st into the third ch. (18 stitches)

Row 11: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Sl st into the third ch to close. (18 stitches)

Row 12-15: Repeat row 11.

Break off, leaving a tail long enough to use to stitch securely to the animal. 

To stuff, start when you finish row 10 and twist the top of the nylon closed.  Then finish stitching through row 14 and finish the piece.  Finish stuffing the leg securely and twist/tie the top...be sure to stuff it as fully as possible without warping the shape of the leg.

Hindleg (make 2)

Foundation: Magic Ring

Row 1: Ch 3, then work 11 dc into the magic ring.  Cinch the ring as tightly as possible, then sl st into the 3rd ch.  Use the sl st to help secure the ring, then secure with a knot into the feeding line.  (12 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 3, then work 2 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Finish the row with a final dc into the joining stitch and then sl st into the third ch. (24 stitches)

Row 3: Sl st into the back post, then ch 2 followed by 1 scbp into each stitch all the way around.  Sl st into the second ch. (24 stitches)

Row 4: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Finish with a sl st into the third ch. (24 stitches)

Row 5-6: Repeat row 4.

Row 7: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg, then work 1 dc into each remaining stitch. Sl st into the third ch to close. (23 stitches)

Row 8: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg, then work 1 dc into each remaining stitch.  Sl st into the third ch to close. (22 stitches)

Row 9: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg.  Then work 1 dc into each remaining stitch.  Sl st into the third ch to close (21 stitches)

Row 10: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg.  Then work 1 dc into each remaining stitch.  Sl st into the third ch to close. (20 stitches)

Row 11: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg.  Then work 1 dc into each remaining stitch.  Sl st into the third ch to close. (19 stitches)

Row 12: Ch 3, then work 1 dc2tg.  Then work 1 dc into the next 5 stitches.  After that, work 3 fpdc2tg followed by 1dc into each of the remaining six stitches.  Sl st into the third ch to close. (16 stitches)

Row 13: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into each of the next six stitches.  Then work 2 fpdc into each of the next three stitches followed by 1 dc into each of the next six stitches.  Sl st into the third ch to close. (19 stitches)

Row 14: Ch 3, then *2 dc followed by 1 dc into each of the next five stitches*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, then sl st into the third ch to close. (22 stitches)

Row 15: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into each of the next three stitches followed by 2 dc into the next stitch.  Then *work 1 dc into each of the next six stitches followed by 2 dc into the next (7th) stitch*.  Repeat *to* once, then finish the row by working 1 dc into the remaining three stitches.  Sl st into the third ch to close the row. (25 stitches)

Row 16: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Sl st into the third ch to close the row. (25 stitches)

Break off, leaving a tail long enough to stitch the hindleg securely to the body.

To stuff this leg, you'll start stuffing it when you reach the end of row 11 (or before you close row 12).  Twist your nylon to temporarily close while you finish stitching the leg.  After you break off, untwist the nylon and finish stuffing the leg but with the hind leg you'll want to be sure you only fill it to about the 15th row (to leave room to sculpt the leg up the side and back of the body) then tie it off securely and snip the extra.

Neck

(With this, the initial chain series for each row does not count in the final stitch numbers)
Foundation: Ch 23, then sl st into the first ch (forming a ring).

Row 1: Ch 1, then work 1 sc into each of the stitches all the way around. (22 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 1, then work 1 sc in each of the next six stitches.  Then work 1 hdc into each of the next eleven stitches, then work 1 sc into each of the next five stitches.  Sl st into the first ch of the row to close. (22 stitches)

Row 3-7: Repeat row 2. (22 stitches)

Break off, leaving both tails long enough to stitch the neck securely to both the body and the head.  When you stitch this in place, you'll start by weaving one tail up the length of the short part of the neck to stitch to the head and then stitch the neck directly to the body (please see the notes at the end to help you understand my own method for connecting the various body parts especially with the neck).

For stuffing this, wait until you have the neck stitched firmly to the body and then stuff very firmly before stitching the head to the neck.

Nose

Foundation: Magic Ring

Row 1: Ch 2, then work 6 sc into the magic ring.  Sl st into the second chain to close the row then cinch the magic ring as tightly as possible then secure with a tight knot with the feeding line. (6 stitches total....does not include the initial chain series)

Row 2: Ch 3, then work 2 dc into each of the stitches all the way around.  Finish by working a final dc into the joining stitch, then sl st into the third chain. (14 stitches total)

Row 3: Ch 3, then work *2 dc in the first stitch followed by 1 dc into the next stitch*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing with a sl st into the third ch. (21 stitches)

Row 4: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into each stitch all the way around.  Sl st into the third chain to finish the row. (21 stitches)

Break off, leaving a tail long enough to stitch firmly to the head. 

For stuffing, stitch the nose 1/2-3/4 of the way to the head.  Then begin by working in a small amount at a time, enough to firmly shape the nose but without stretching it out.  Tie off your nylon, then finish stitching the nose onto the head securely.

Ears (make 2)

Foundation: Magic Ring

Row 1: Ch 2, then work 6 sc into the ring.  Sl st into the second chain, then cinch the ring as tightly as possible before securing with a secure knot with the feed line.  (6 stitches total, not including the chain series used to start the row.)

Row 2: Ch 3, then work 2 dc into the first stitch followed by *1 dc into the next stitch.  Work 2 dc into the next stitch*, then repeat *to* all the way around.  Finish with a sl st into the third ch. (12 stitches total)

Row 3: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc into each of the next two stitches followed by 2 dc into the third stitch*.  Repeat *to* all the way around, finishing the pattern repeat with a final dc into the joining stitch.  Sl st into the third ch to close the row. (16 stitches)

Row 4: Ch 3, then work 1 dc into the next stitch.  Then *work 2 dc into the next stitch followed by 1 dc into each of the next three stitches*.  Repeat *to*twice then finish the row by working 2 dc into the next stitch followed by 1 dc into the next stitch.  Sl st into the third ch to close. (20 stitches)

Row 5: Ch 3, then *work 1 dc into each of the following four stitches followed by 2 dc into the next stitch*.  Repeat *to* twice, then finish the row by working 2 hdc2tg.  Sl st into the third chain. (21 stitches)

Break off, leaving a tail long enough to stitch securely to the head.

No stuffing needed for these.

Eyes (make 2 of these using only a single strand of yarn. Use the H hook and the darker color (brown, black, etc) vs the body)

Foundation: Magic Ring

Row 1: Ch 3, then work 13 dc into the magic ring.  Sl st into the third ch and cinch the magic ring as tightly as possible.  (Measure off the extra long tail before securing the magic ring and break off.)  Secure the magic ring.

Ok, have you all your materials, hooks, needles, and excitement?  Get them ready, we'll be meeting at Knit Unique on Main Street in Logan tomorrow (Tuesday) at 6pm and I'll be posting here online the following day....see you then!! :D

A Pony Stitch-A-Long!

Yep, you read right: we're going to be hosting a stitch-a-long for everyone!  And it isn't just any ol' design either...this is the incredibly popular Pony pattern!

We're going to be doing this two different ways:

1- In person at Knit Unique on Main St. in Logan, Utah where we'll get to play with our fiber and hooks as we work each of these parts up together, helping to answer any questions to come up.  We'll be doing this each Tuesday night at 6pm starting on July 29th and running until August 19th.  Not available those nights or not local?  No fear!

2- We're also hosting our stitch-a-long here online as well!  Each week on Wednesday, we'll be updating the blog with specific directions regarding the parts we're learning directly as well as pictures to help fill in a few of those blanks that aren't as easily explained (at least for this lady who happens to be a bit more verbally challenged).  I'm also hoping that you'll join with showing off your progress on the facebook page as we go.  You can ask questions either in the comments to each blog post or there on the facebook page or even via email.

I know, I know...you already have questions. How about we try and answer just a few to help everyone get ready?

First of all, for this particular stitch-a-long, there is no cost involved save for the cost of your materials (the list will be posted shortly so keep reading, but if you purchase your supplies at Knit Unique I believe they usually have a discount offered for any of the classes) and a suggested donation to go to the one who our pattern design is based on. This pattern I'm about to share with y'all is based on a genius design created by Megan Daly over at Hooked on Anime.  She is sharing this free of charge at http://hooked-on-anime.dreamwidth.org/6139.html, though there is a suggested donation of $6 to help her be able to continue sharing her patterns.  You can find her story there....my story follows which will explain a bit about the differences.

Basically, last Summer I had a special commission request come in via a friend and colleague at the local Gardeners' Market.  She was looking to be able to get a giant crochet pony for her daughter's upcoming birthday and she wanted it to be styled similarly to the My Little Pony character Rarity.  I agreed to help her, with the warning that it would take a great deal of time....especially as this was going to be a totally new take on things for me.  So I started doing my research.  After a few brain-racking months (and some crazy fun watching some of the new cartoons with my kids who are now TOTALLY addicted), I finally figured I would learn from a making a smaller version and began searching...and stumbled across Megan's generous and genius design.  After making it, I started tweaking with the pattern (finally figuring out I'd more or less have to start from scratch) and thus was born the GIANT pony.  For the sake of my own sanity, as well as in an effort to find ways to make other animals for myself/all of you of various sizes, I later went back and added my own twist to the pony pattern so that it works for using double stranded yarn (which changes the finished size and weight thus requiring a tiny bit of tweaking) plus added some ruffle yarn to use for the mane and tail.  As this isn't my own creation but instead is based on Megan's genius, I'm hoping that the double stranded translation will be a fun twist for those of you who are already used to her fun pattern but we want to keep credit where credit is due so be sure to let her know how much we all appreciate her!

Ok, enough boring history.  On with the fun preparations!

Just an example of what a pony looks like made from these brands.

To join us for our fun project, you'll need the following:
*1 full skein (maybe more if you prefer a REALLY full ruffle) of ruffle scarf yarn, Choose This First!
*2-4 or more skeins of worsted weight yarn.  The kind of yarn is based on your own preference, but it also tends to dictate how many skeins you'll need.  For example, when I use the I Love This Yarn acrylic brand (the Hobby Lobby stuff) I'll go through 2 skeins.  When I use the Encore brand (the acrylic I found at Knit Unique) I used 4 skeins.  Each of the yarns are going to have a different kind of elasticity so be sure that you have plenty.  One very important note: Be sure that you find your ruffle yarn first and then keep it with you to help you choose the exact color and shade of yarn you are going to use for your pony's body.  Trust me, trying to go the other way around is really a frustrating stinker.
*Your favorite crochet hook...size J/10-6.00mm is my preference though if you prefer a tighter stitch size down to and I (I wouldn't go lower than that, you'll start slipping the threads)
*A good tapestry needle...I prefer the Chibi brand (the larger ones with the bend needle end as the bend helps work through the threads and the larger size allows for the multiple strands faster/easier)
*4-5 pairs nylon knee-highs (I get mine from Walmart in their little bobbles that are usually 3/$1) that are approximately the same color as your body yarn
*At least one full 12 oz package of stiff polyfil stuffing...not the quilt batting (unless you're ready to really tear it up and fluff it or you'll have battering rams...my boys proved that one!), but the already fluffed stuff.  I will usually use Morning Glory brand, but go with what you think will give you the best fill without being too fluffy or you'll never be able to get your pony to stand on its own two feet much less to hold it's head high. :)

And that is pretty much it for now.  Feel free to leave those questions in the comments so we can help everyone find their answers hopefully as easily as possible and mark the date....we don't want to miss a single one of you with our fun introductory project!!!